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Will Oxx's avatar

Hey Duecy, I’m thoroughly enjoying reading all the big wall climbing history you’ve compiled in one place. Great job!

I’ll never forget how much I enjoyed cleaning the Bird Beaks you created and expertly placed after your FA leads on the last pitch of Bird Beak Spire in Zion and on El Cap’s Albatross (leading up to the Canoe). Well placed Beaks are Bomber. Your expert design perfected them indeed!

I’d like to read some history about the evolution of big wall hauling systems.

Another great memory I have regarding “mechanical advantage” was when I first witnessed you demonstrate the “Suicide Haul” below Cast Away Maties Pinnacle. You called “ready to haul” after taking up the slack on the haul line and I let our extremely heavy load free. I was shocked when the haul bags literally shot up the wall and you flew down wearing a full double rack of gear. The light bulb went on when I arrived at the belay and saw how you’d backed everything up.

You’re a brilliant big wall climber and I greatly appreciated your taking me under your wing during those first ascents.

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genofoto's avatar

really nice article, John!, thank you! those Czech beaks looks amazing! i guess there are no more available over there, right?

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