Marek Raganowicz writes: Maybe the first beak was invented in Czech guys, but the shape of Polish beak is totally different and that was the innovation. In my experience, I could compare with Polish beaks only big BD and all sizes of Tomahawks by Moses. Now, I never climb without Polish beaks and Tomahawks in my rack. I think now the Moses beaks are No1...
More on Jim's beaks here: https://www.karabinclimbingmuseum.com/bridwell-2001-visit.html Funny, he never showed any of these to me, just described the sawed off crack’n’up, so I made my own version which then became the standard for many years, though I knew more could be done (they worked well and were pretty universal, and I was happy when companies like Vermin first extended the design).
Hey Duecy, I’m thoroughly enjoying reading all the big wall climbing history you’ve compiled in one place. Great job!
I’ll never forget how much I enjoyed cleaning the Bird Beaks you created and expertly placed after your FA leads on the last pitch of Bird Beak Spire in Zion and on El Cap’s Albatross (leading up to the Canoe). Well placed Beaks are Bomber. Your expert design perfected them indeed!
I’d like to read some history about the evolution of big wall hauling systems.
Another great memory I have regarding “mechanical advantage” was when I first witnessed you demonstrate the “Suicide Haul” below Cast Away Maties Pinnacle. You called “ready to haul” after taking up the slack on the haul line and I let our extremely heavy load free. I was shocked when the haul bags literally shot up the wall and you flew down wearing a full double rack of gear. The light bulb went on when I arrived at the belay and saw how you’d backed everything up.
You’re a brilliant big wall climber and I greatly appreciated your taking me under your wing during those first ascents.
The origin of the "Bugaboo" style piton, pictured in one of the Czech mags above, is also unclear. For 1950s pitons and beyond, see Marty's and Dr. Piton's sites. Links to follow.
Marek Raganowicz writes: Maybe the first beak was invented in Czech guys, but the shape of Polish beak is totally different and that was the innovation. In my experience, I could compare with Polish beaks only big BD and all sizes of Tomahawks by Moses. Now, I never climb without Polish beaks and Tomahawks in my rack. I think now the Moses beaks are No1...
More on Jim's beaks here: https://www.karabinclimbingmuseum.com/bridwell-2001-visit.html Funny, he never showed any of these to me, just described the sawed off crack’n’up, so I made my own version which then became the standard for many years, though I knew more could be done (they worked well and were pretty universal, and I was happy when companies like Vermin first extended the design).
Hey Duecy, I’m thoroughly enjoying reading all the big wall climbing history you’ve compiled in one place. Great job!
I’ll never forget how much I enjoyed cleaning the Bird Beaks you created and expertly placed after your FA leads on the last pitch of Bird Beak Spire in Zion and on El Cap’s Albatross (leading up to the Canoe). Well placed Beaks are Bomber. Your expert design perfected them indeed!
I’d like to read some history about the evolution of big wall hauling systems.
Another great memory I have regarding “mechanical advantage” was when I first witnessed you demonstrate the “Suicide Haul” below Cast Away Maties Pinnacle. You called “ready to haul” after taking up the slack on the haul line and I let our extremely heavy load free. I was shocked when the haul bags literally shot up the wall and you flew down wearing a full double rack of gear. The light bulb went on when I arrived at the belay and saw how you’d backed everything up.
You’re a brilliant big wall climber and I greatly appreciated your taking me under your wing during those first ascents.
Great piton online archives, with dates and provenance when known:
Marty’s site: https://www.karabinclimbingmuseum.com/pitons---page-one.html
MrPiton: https://www.mrpiton.com/p2.htm
Ashby’s site: verticalarchaeology.com/
really nice article, John!, thank you! those Czech beaks looks amazing! i guess there are no more available over there, right?
The origin of the "Bugaboo" style piton, pictured in one of the Czech mags above, is also unclear. For 1950s pitons and beyond, see Marty's and Dr. Piton's sites. Links to follow.