Hello, subscribers and D4 fans who have been receiving my Substack history research.
I am hoping to get a bit of feedback as we lead up to more and more advanced tools and techniques for big wall climbing.
As a researcher, it is easy to get drawn into the proverbial “rabbit holes” where days can be spent on details sidelining the story, for example, the life of the Chamois in the European Alps.
Just hoping if you have a moment to note if you like this research and if the level of detail is sometimes too much, and also if you have any suggestions to spice it up. (Lately, I’m stuck on the latest chapter on Konrad Kain’s climbs in Europe with perhaps too much detail, but some new interesting connections).
Thanks!
Edit: Thanks everyone! Super helpful comments. I will definitely try to get it all in book form, perhaps a print-on-demand. Most publishers would probably cut the number of photos—I think the story can only really be told visually, stuff is often too hard to explain. Pics tell 1000 words, so really a million-page book. ;)
Yo John I've been waiting a year or so maybe 10 to inquire and get some feedback from you Jim Erickson says that you guys are in touch. But this is me. My question do you remember about the elves Chasm Upper Falls at the base of the red wall. I found a nice OMG project that I have pitched to Erik weihenmayer who said Pitch it to Timmy O'Neill who is so solidly booked.... did you have the OMG at the base of the red wall. A vague memory being there with some other boaters who said above here the New Zealand guy went on up but no one else.
Not sure we met when I sat at your beer Table after you Neptune history.
Your articles are all super in-depth, and I'm not interested in every topic you write about, so I don't read every article.
BUT! When you do write on something I'm interested enough to read, I'm grateful that you delve so deeply into things. I'm definitely looking forward to when you get around to climbing history in the USA.
Hi John! thanks a lot for all that amazing work of research! i confess i wait for your emails with great expectative. so thank you! - from catalonia, spain. g
Dear John, first of all thank you for the most fascinating and detailed research on climbing equipment in context with the time and regional climbing cultures. It is really outstanding. I still have not had the time to read all of your articles, but they will be a relevant source for my own involvement with the history of climbing equipment. It is your research into Konrad Kain that brought me to sending you this feed back. I am British but have been living in Vienna, Austria for most of my life. I have climbed a lot on the Rax where Kain was born and put up the renown „Wiener Neustädter“ climb. This was until 1918 the hardest route in the area and graded 3-4 UIAA grading. So called because of the plan of the government of the town „Wiener Neustadt“ to introduce a qualifying certificate for climbers! (Rax is in the County of Wiener Neustadt). I never did the climb - too chossy. I am a climber, a now retired industrial designer, having also been involved tinkering, designing and inventing climbing gear. If you are interested I would like to send you more detailed information. Please contact me skone@vienna.at
I also love the rabbit holes. Wherever your brain goes always seems to be interesting to me. Occasionally you refer to some historical event that you assume is already known, yet I don’t know it. In editing process for book production, I am happy to read manuscript carefully to catch these gaps. Also, the more photos the better. Please print them large! Being able to zoom to see detail has been invaluable, but of course printing doesn’t give that ability.
I have found some things more interesting than others - the inter-war years in the Dolomites & Wilder Kaiser, previously unheralded women’s ascents - but that reflects areas I know a little or an interest in the wrinkles of history. All sorts of little oddities … do you know anything about Anderl Heckmair’s service on the Eastern Front in WW2? (I don’t.) I’m less interested in the mechanics of progression, save in so far as they reflect the spirit of the times … but given your chosen title for this series I can’t complain. & to echo others - what you’re putting together goes far beyond a blog & definitely deserves to find its way into the “old media”. I’ll buy a copy.
Love the details, John. In many fields, such nuances and specifics are where the substance is found. Keep up the great work. Also, I second Katie Ives's comment. Your work on women climbers has been phenomenal!
I love all your research, particularly the stories about lesser-known women climbers. I hope all this goes into a book or some other permanent form so future researchers can access it--Katie.
Yo John I've been waiting a year or so maybe 10 to inquire and get some feedback from you Jim Erickson says that you guys are in touch. But this is me. My question do you remember about the elves Chasm Upper Falls at the base of the red wall. I found a nice OMG project that I have pitched to Erik weihenmayer who said Pitch it to Timmy O'Neill who is so solidly booked.... did you have the OMG at the base of the red wall. A vague memory being there with some other boaters who said above here the New Zealand guy went on up but no one else.
Not sure we met when I sat at your beer Table after you Neptune history.
Your articles are all super in-depth, and I'm not interested in every topic you write about, so I don't read every article.
BUT! When you do write on something I'm interested enough to read, I'm grateful that you delve so deeply into things. I'm definitely looking forward to when you get around to climbing history in the USA.
Hi John! thanks a lot for all that amazing work of research! i confess i wait for your emails with great expectative. so thank you! - from catalonia, spain. g
Dear John, first of all thank you for the most fascinating and detailed research on climbing equipment in context with the time and regional climbing cultures. It is really outstanding. I still have not had the time to read all of your articles, but they will be a relevant source for my own involvement with the history of climbing equipment. It is your research into Konrad Kain that brought me to sending you this feed back. I am British but have been living in Vienna, Austria for most of my life. I have climbed a lot on the Rax where Kain was born and put up the renown „Wiener Neustädter“ climb. This was until 1918 the hardest route in the area and graded 3-4 UIAA grading. So called because of the plan of the government of the town „Wiener Neustadt“ to introduce a qualifying certificate for climbers! (Rax is in the County of Wiener Neustadt). I never did the climb - too chossy. I am a climber, a now retired industrial designer, having also been involved tinkering, designing and inventing climbing gear. If you are interested I would like to send you more detailed information. Please contact me skone@vienna.at
Also check out: www.no-to-po.com/glory days/skone stones /salewa super magic
Cheers James Skone
I also love the rabbit holes. Wherever your brain goes always seems to be interesting to me. Occasionally you refer to some historical event that you assume is already known, yet I don’t know it. In editing process for book production, I am happy to read manuscript carefully to catch these gaps. Also, the more photos the better. Please print them large! Being able to zoom to see detail has been invaluable, but of course printing doesn’t give that ability.
Your research articles always seem to explain the angles that are never explained and always assumed. Good on you for going the extra mile!
Digressions, the weeds, rabbit holes all good. Thank you.
I have found some things more interesting than others - the inter-war years in the Dolomites & Wilder Kaiser, previously unheralded women’s ascents - but that reflects areas I know a little or an interest in the wrinkles of history. All sorts of little oddities … do you know anything about Anderl Heckmair’s service on the Eastern Front in WW2? (I don’t.) I’m less interested in the mechanics of progression, save in so far as they reflect the spirit of the times … but given your chosen title for this series I can’t complain. & to echo others - what you’re putting together goes far beyond a blog & definitely deserves to find its way into the “old media”. I’ll buy a copy.
It’s all good to me! Have had alotta time to read with this covid crap. Hope you all are doing well and keep up the good work🤙
Your research goes deep and wide and feeds my sense of wonder. Thanks so much for bringing all this to life with such considered detail and imagery.
I’m interested in historical and cultural context intersecting with climbing and topography. At the moment, I’m particularly keen on the Karakoram.
It’s fun to see where your curiosity takes you, rabbit holes and all.
And yep — I Love reading about women. And the maps — Delicious!
Love the details, John. In many fields, such nuances and specifics are where the substance is found. Keep up the great work. Also, I second Katie Ives's comment. Your work on women climbers has been phenomenal!
The detail and historic photos are the gold. Larger higher resolution images the better.
I love all your research, particularly the stories about lesser-known women climbers. I hope all this goes into a book or some other permanent form so future researchers can access it--Katie.
Rabbit holes are good. I do want to hear about chamois in the Alps.