14 Comments
User's avatar
John Middendorf's avatar

Well, after a week in Arapiles, I was able to top rope 19. 3 years ago, a week in Araps got me to 21, in 2020, finished with a grade 20. Albeit this trip I climbed almost exclusively easy grades with Remi, which climbs her age readily (Aussie grades).

John Middendorf's avatar

PDF now online at http://bigwalls.net/MechAdvantageVol1b.pdf

I used 'Generate generic PDFX-3 document' so hopefully fonts embedded, and will always look the same.

James Vivian's avatar

Also: If/When the Print is available, I'll be happy to buy a copy. Might be worth looking into print-on-demand option [?] if that's of any interest. There's a shop in Santa Fe (among others) that does that and handles shipping

James Vivian's avatar

Fantastic story + the history/tech component. Had to check..."17" Eubanks (Aussie/NZ) appears to be ~5.9+/10- YDS. Plucking *that* OTS is actually pretty impressive! Cheers.

John Middendorf's avatar

Katie Sauter referenced OTC in a recent email. Perhaps the "off the couch" rating is the more standard one to determine the time required to get back to a certain level of fitness.

Christian Beckwith's avatar

Just finished printing out hard versions of all the posts to date. Invaluable. Count me in.

John Middendorf's avatar

oh no! Hard copies of the web versions are very awkward! I will send you a pdf soon. Thanks!

Craig's avatar

If you get it published, I'll buy it. I would love a signed copy in fact!

jeff's avatar

count me in for print copy!!

Waterman's avatar

Count me in for a copy.

Danny Giovale's avatar

Count me in for a printed copy! I can be your Flagstaff distribution hub if we get a few others onboard.

John Middendorf's avatar

Eric writes, wisely advising to switch methodology:

Ha. Love the OTS rating concept, John!

One nickname I earned in my teenage years and twenties was Couchmaster.

I used to say, in place of "Hard day, easy day": "Hard day, easy month, hard day, easy month."

and

"One day on, six weeks off."

Nowadays, as I may have shared with you, I like to stick to my DUH program: Delightfully Uninjured and Healthy.

That's from NOT trying to climb 5.12 and 5.13 any more.

Have fun with the family in Arapilles. Consider the DUH program, if it suits you!

Eric

Richard Delaney's avatar

Hi John, I’ll buy one for sure!