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Well, after a week in Arapiles, I was able to top rope 19. 3 years ago, a week in Araps got me to 21, in 2020, finished with a grade 20. Albeit this trip I climbed almost exclusively easy grades with Remi, which climbs her age readily (Aussie grades).

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PDF now online at http://bigwalls.net/MechAdvantageVol1b.pdf

I used 'Generate generic PDFX-3 document' so hopefully fonts embedded, and will always look the same.

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Sep 29, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

Also: If/When the Print is available, I'll be happy to buy a copy. Might be worth looking into print-on-demand option [?] if that's of any interest. There's a shop in Santa Fe (among others) that does that and handles shipping

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Sep 29, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

Fantastic story + the history/tech component. Had to check..."17" Eubanks (Aussie/NZ) appears to be ~5.9+/10- YDS. Plucking *that* OTS is actually pretty impressive! Cheers.

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Sep 28, 2022·edited Sep 28, 2022Author

Katie Sauter referenced OTC in a recent email. Perhaps the "off the couch" rating is the more standard one to determine the time required to get back to a certain level of fitness.

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Sep 28, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

Just finished printing out hard versions of all the posts to date. Invaluable. Count me in.

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Sep 28, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

If you get it published, I'll buy it. I would love a signed copy in fact!

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Sep 28, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

count me in for print copy!!

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Sep 27, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

Count me in for a copy.

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Sep 27, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

Count me in for a printed copy! I can be your Flagstaff distribution hub if we get a few others onboard.

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Eric writes, wisely advising to switch methodology:

Ha. Love the OTS rating concept, John!

One nickname I earned in my teenage years and twenties was Couchmaster.

I used to say, in place of "Hard day, easy day": "Hard day, easy month, hard day, easy month."

and

"One day on, six weeks off."

Nowadays, as I may have shared with you, I like to stick to my DUH program: Delightfully Uninjured and Healthy.

That's from NOT trying to climb 5.12 and 5.13 any more.

Have fun with the family in Arapilles. Consider the DUH program, if it suits you!

Eric

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Sep 27, 2022Liked by John Middendorf

Hi John, I’ll buy one for sure!

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