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James Vivian's avatar

What can you say about a guy who can tie in with a capable partner and adopt the "rope, a rack, and the shirt on your back" style and blast up essentially ANY El Cap route in under 24 hours? It's a rare form of Genius and a rare skill...do it once and you've had a good day. Do it a couple or a few times and you have a level of credibility that only a small subset of the climbing community ever gets near. Do it at least 19 times and there's a degree of "reproducibility" in terms of premeditated intent and devotion that proves that it's not some Parlor Trick on cherry-picked trade routes. In some sports the saying goes "You can't teach speed"...that's amplified even more so in the vertical. You can only earn it through depth of experience, and Ammon set a standard that would take another lifetime to approach. El Cap was never his adversary...it was the medium where he practiced transforming the "impossible" into accomplishments. The Pirate, awash on the full and high seas of El Cap.

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Guilherme Cadori's avatar

Great content, John. I wish I could read/hear more about your big wall stories as well.

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