INDEX to Mechanical Advantage series
The development of big wall tools and techniques by John Middendorf IV
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Index to Mechanical Advantage Series
Volume 1:
early days:
In the Beginning: Subtle Means and Engines
Pre-1492 climbing tools MAY 10, 2021
18th Century Mountaineering MAY 17, 2021
American Trail Builders, 1800's MAY 19, 2021
The rise of iron for ascent JUN 22, 2021
Rope Technology in the 19th century JUN 27, 2021
Early pitons:
Mizzi Langer -- first advertised rock climbing pitons (Mauerhaken) JUL 14, 2021
Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1a--Origin of the term "piton", and Marmolada JUL 26, 2021
Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1b--Alpine ways and artificial aids. JUL 28, 2021
Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1c--Mauerhaken AUG 2, 2021
Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1d--Inline pitons and the rise of steel AUG 4, 2021
Climbing Pitons Early Evolution-part 1e--Fiechtlhaken Design. AUG 20, 2021
Campanile Basso di Brenta SEP 3, 2021
(the above seven articles have been edited and will appear in the 2023 Alpine Journal)
Early Techniques and European innovations:
Tita Piaz-Alpinista Acrobatico (Piaz PartA) AUG 24, 2021
Tita Piaz-Speed Climber and Rope Acrobat (Piaz PartB) SEP 12, 2021
Tita Piaz-Guide and Rigging Expert (Piaz PartC) SEP 17, 2021
Tita Piaz, PartD--Big Wall Climber JAN 5, 2022
(the above four articles have been edited and will appear in the 2023 American Alpine Journal)
Climbing Tools and Techniques—1908 to 1939 (Europe, PartA) Myths and Legends FEB 11, 2022
Climbing Tools and Techniques—1908 to 1939-Aid Climbing Mastery (Europe, PartB 1st draft) FEB 20, 2022
1930s Climbing Tools (Europe, PartC) MAR 19, 2022
1930s climbing histories of the pre-WWI era. DEC 5, 2021
Representation of Early Women Alpinists (notesV2) DEC 2, 2021
First carabiners for climbing-summary. AUG 9, 2022
PRINT FORMAT VERSION OF ALL THE ABOVE HERE (pdf, 450mb)
Volume 2:
Early North American Innovations:
Climbing Tools and Techniques—early North American Developments to 1910 APR 23, 2022
Trains and Kain (Canada climbing to 1916, part 1) MAY 14, 2022
Trains and Kain (part 2) JUN 5, 2022
British Empire pitons 1920s+, notes on Japan SEPT 14, 2022
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1950s USA and ongoing work:
1950s USA Gear notes AUG 18, 2022
Post-WW2 American Steel Pitons addendum AUG 31,2022
A5 hammer production forge process (sidebar)AUG 22, 2022
State of the Art Climbing Gear, 1964 AUG 15, 2022
OTHER ARTICLES RESEARCH & HISTORY NOTES
Tools and Climbing Styles Mechanical Advantage series, a ramble, perhaps the introduction. OCT 5, 2021
Foreword (draft) APR 3, 2022
on Skunkworks... musings of the old days by John Middendorf JUN 6, 2022
Birdbeaks JUN 9, 2022
Monkey paw story JUL 1, 2021
D4 Delta2p Evolution (2020 John Middendorf portaledge design) AUG 2, 2021
D4 vs A5 Frame Engineering Analysis SEP 8, 2021
Fallen heroes (and the climbing/politics/war/bias interface) AUG 12, 2022
Partial bibliography:
hope this is helpful to researchers and historians...