INDEX to Mechanical Advantage series

The development of big wall tools and techniques by John Middendorf IV

John Middendorf

Sep 3, 2022

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Index to Mechanical Advantage Series

Volume 1:

Foreword APR 3, 2022

Tools and Climbing Styles Mechanical Advantage (introduction). OCT 5, 2021

early days:

In the Beginning: Subtle Means and Engines

Pre-1492 climbing tools MAY 10, 2021

18th Century Mountaineering MAY 17, 2021

American Trail Builders, 1800's MAY 19, 2021

The rise of iron for ascent JUN 22, 2021

Rope Technology in the 19th century JUN 27, 2021

Early pitons:

Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1a--Origin of the term "piton", and Marmolada JUL 26, 2021

Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1b--Alpine ways and artificial aids. JUL 28, 2021

Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1c--Mauerhaken AUG 2, 2021

Mizzi Langer -- first advertised rock climbing pitons (Mauerhaken) JUL 14, 2021

Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1d--Inline pitons and the rise of steel AUG 4, 2021

Climbing Pitons Early Evolution-part 1e--Fiechtlhaken Design. AUG 20, 2021

Campanile Basso di Brenta SEP 3, 2021

(the above seven articles have been edited appear in the 2023 British Alpine Journal)

Early Techniques and European innovations:

Tita Piaz-Alpinista Acrobatico (Piaz PartA) AUG 24, 2021

Tita Piaz-Speed Climber and Rope Acrobat (Piaz PartB) SEP 12, 2021

Tita Piaz-Guide and Rigging Expert (Piaz PartC) SEP 17, 2021

Tita Piaz, PartD--Big Wall Climber JAN 5, 2022

(the above four articles have been edited and appear in the 2023 American Alpine Journal)

Climbing Tools and Techniques—1908 to 1939 (Europe, PartA) Myths and Legends FEB 11, 2022

Representation of Early Women Alpinists (notesV2) DEC 2, 2021

Climbing Tools and Techniques—1908 to 1939-Aid Climbing Mastery (Europe, PartB) FEB 20, 2022

First carabiners for climbing-summary. AUG 9, 2022

1930s Climbing Tools (Europe, PartC) MAR 19, 2022

1930s climbing histories of the pre-WWI era. DEC 5, 2021 (as Appendix)

(+Oliver Perry Smith)

PRINT FORMAT VERSION OF ALL THE ABOVE HERE (pdf, 450mb)

Volume 2:

Early North American Innovations:

Climbing Tools and Techniques—early North American Developments to 1910 APR 23, 2022 (-Oliver Perry Smith)

Trains and Kain (Canada climbing to 1916, part 1) MAY 14, 2022

Trains and Kain (part 2) JUN 5, 2022

British Empire pitons 1920s+, notes on Japan SEPT 14, 2022

USA Adoption of pitons, 1920s - 1939 (part A) (Nov, 2022)

Games Climbers Play (Dec, 2022)

Envisioning of pitons USA and Miriam O’Brien (Dec 21, 2022)

Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical

The envisioning of pitons, USA 1920s

Long article, best initially read in a browser, without getting distracted by footnotes. The case for women’s higher standards with new climbing tools and techniques than generally acknowledged. Changing standards, 1920s In 1920s America, thrilling tales of polar and Himalayan explorations featured in national news headlines, as more remote inhospitable …

a month ago · John Middendorf

to do:

1930s Bigwalls—including 10th and 1940s.
Camping and Expeditions
1950s global climbs.

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1950s USA and ongoing work:

1950s USA Gear notes AUG 18, 2022

Post-WW2 American Steel Pitons addendum AUG 31,2022

A5 hammer production forge process (sidebar)AUG 22, 2022

State of the Art Climbing Gear, 1964 AUG 15, 2022